- Kouign amann has become very trendy in the United States and is starting to break into Canada.
- The Breton cake born in Douarnenez was "imported" by pastry chef Dominique Ansel.
- The American press but also celebrities like supermodel Emily Radjatovski have promoted this new generation crescent.
It is a tribute to greed, an ode to fat, an apology to sugar. At a time when the calorie is scrutinized by a magnifying glass, kouign amann has managed the impossible: it has become trendy. Worn by some "influencers", the cake born in Douarnenez even exported to the United States and knew
to establish itself in many bakeries in New York, San Francisco and in all the trendy cities of the country. And he will not stop there.
The idea had sprouted in the mind of the French pastry chef Dominique Ansel, who was the first to offer Breton pastry in his New York store in 2011. "I made 100 a day, people were lining up to buy, they even called to reserve them, "said the great pastry chef. Some influential press critics, all happy to find a new generation croissant, had been in charge of promoting the Breton cake.
The real news is that there is a way to find a Kouign-Amann in San Francisco https://t.co/WA1ybvIj81
– Jules Grandin (@JulesGrandin) September 17, 2019
Last year, in its event number, the Food & Wine magazine ranked kouign amann among its 40 best recipes of all time. The supermodel Emily Radjatovski had
also confessed "eat every day", even if we doubt a little of this statement. And here is kouign amann supplanting the crescent in the heart of the world's leading power.
"Two years ago nobody knew him here"
Eight years after his arrival in the United States, the Breton cake seems to have crossed a border again and tries to impose its forms in Canada. "In Toronto, there are four bakeries that offer it. But two years ago nobody knew him here, "reports Suresh Doss. This influential food critic of CBC Toronto has fallen under the spell of the "queen a man" during her stays in France and has decided to devote an article to it very recently. "Kouign amann is an amazing experience. It's so rich, it's great to eat, "says the Canadian journalist.
For him, the success of the recipe is explained by its difficulty of design. "Bakeries are trying to offer it to attract new customers looking for something new". "We did some tests, we made a lot of mistakes to find the right recipe," says Aura Hertzog, head of the Ambrosia Corner Bakery in Toronto. The young woman, who had discovered kouign amann in a French bakery in Montreal, offers only three days a week. "Butter is quite expensive for us and the design is complex and takes a lot of time. Each time, we have a queue and we sell them in a few hours, "says the young woman.
But why is the Douarnenez treasure so successful? "People like that fat side, the crispness on the outside and the softness on the inside," says Aura Hertzog. "It is a pleasure, those who eat it know that it is a luxury that they offer themselves," says the critic Suresh Doss. "It's fashionable, all cities a little hipster propose in the United States. There is one side bigger is better (Bigger, better is) that appeals in North America, "adds Charles Kergaravat, former expatriate and founder of the association Breizh Amerika. All good things have a hunger.
And what is the American kouign amann worth?
Become trendy, kouign amann has been fatally abused across the Atlantic. While some bakeries offer a good artisanal product, others "would cause cardiac arrest to the purists of Douarnenez," according to New York Charles Kergaravat. "I think that the butter factor is very important and that the products found in the United States are not of the quality of Breton butter". The Trader Joe's supermarket chain also offers a frozen version of kouign amann.
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https://www.20minutes.fr/rennes/2623847-20191010-apres-avoir-conquis-etats-unis-kouign-amann-part-assaut-canada