emblem of the entire kitchen of the decade could be this dessert created by Massimo Bottura in 2015, for the inaugural lunch of Expo, whose theme was "Feeding the Planet". The chef of the Osteria Francescana di Modena, who also became an international spokesman for the no-waste movement with the non-profit association Food For Soul, turns dry bread into gold to give a strong message in a gala dinner. Only milk, bread and sugar, three simple ingredients, like the snacks of the past, become a small one
Decade 2010-2019, in the food the Masterchef phenomenon, the natural return and the landing of gourmet pizza
by DAVIDE BANFO
Un special dessert which will be served during all the charity dinners at the Expo. When over 40 of the greatest international chefs, from Alain Ducasse to Ferran Adria, from Alex Atala to Mauro Colagreco, they cooked for the homeless at the Ambrosiano refectory. A symbol of the decade, therefore, "out of the race" on this special list of trend-creations.
Centrifuge of asparagus and borage with oysters and sea urchins, by Gennaro Esposito (photo by Davide Ricciardiello)
2010 Centrifuge of asparagus and borage with oysters and sea urchins. One of the most representative dishes of chef Gennaro Esposito, which emphasizes the obsession of bringing the sea and the plant element together. The tendency is clear: to find references of taste, assonances in apparently very different elements. In this case the common thread that links a seaweed to a vegetable, to find scents and humours. It turns out that the iodine notes are also found in plants, in borage, to amplify those of the oyster and hedgehog. Whose fat is accompanied by minerality. A run-up of bitter, iodine, green, for a taste that does not pander but that nevertheless conquers.
I made the egg with cuttlefish, by Pino Cuttaia
2011 The cuttlefish egg. Pino Cuttaia creates this dish that becomes a symbol of mimicry. Of a kitchen that speaks metaphors, which synthesizes multiple concepts in one. The egg had also been the symbol of another chef, Cracco, who had created a paste of only yolk in the previous decade. Now Cuttaia recreates an egg that is sepia. "The cuttlefish with its colors, ranging from brown to gray to black, the whiteness of the coat, which just fished seems almost phosphorescent, has always exerted a certain charm on me" says the chef, who however brings it to the table in contemporary form because “a dish of traditional cuisine evolves over time, also through the comparison between different ways of preparing it, with the tips and advice that we exchange, with the secrets and tricks that are handed down from generation to generation generation". The fake egg white is actually the white of the cuttlefish, which contains a traditional, very intense sauce, the classic cuttlefish sauce with which the pasta is then seasoned.
Pasta and potatoes according to Nino Di Costanzo (photo Brambilla-Serrani)
2012 Pasta and potatoes. Other than a popular dish! Nino di Costanzo stages the revenge of a poor recipe and presents it to the public on special occasions. Without betraying the flavor of the dish of the past, the shape becomes aristocratic, strong in its chromaticism given by different types of potatoes – white, yellow, purple. Even the origin is not denied: that mixed pasta, fruit of the remnants of the different sacks, of when the pasta was still sold in bulk. But in this case each of the formats fell into the water at different times, based on the minutes of cooking. The potatoes are in different consistencies, foam, puree, chunks. The flavor of the bacon is not lacking, it peeps out in cubes here and there on the plate together with the herbs.
Davide Scabin's Il Rognone al Gin in the photo by Bob Noto
2013 The kidney with gin by Davide Scabin is one of the most famous examples of another trend of the decade: the enhancement of the so-called fifth quarter, the parts considered less noble than the animal. Awarded as a dish of the year in Deauville during the Omnivore gastronomic conference and included in the menu awarded as lunch of the year in the Espresso 2013 restaurant guide, it is a dish as strong as a punch, yet not without elegance. The kidney slices are cooked-uncooked (at 65 degrees), vacuum-packed in butter, and served with cucumber, macerated for two hours in gin, diced as well as a hot gin sauce and accompanied by sweet and sour onion.
2014 Wedding ring, the dish is a dessert by Massimiliano Alajmo emphasizes the concept of trust and pushes the guest to look beyond. Born years earlier, it became famous after the recipe was included in the book Fluidita. The particular thing is that the dish is served (apparently empty). In reality the 17 grams of golden cream are on the opposite side of the holster, on the opposite and hidden side. To get to taste it you have to turn the dish, strive for a little treasure hunt. The particularity? The Calandre chef observed that it is children who discover makeup before adults.
2015 The wrong daisy by Franco Pepe, at the top for two years of the ranking of the best pizza makers in the world. You can't not consider pizza on this list, because white art has experienced a real revolution in this decade. Not only of attention to yeasts, doughs and product quality for the "toppings", but also for the new messages (starting from the territoriality and seasonality but also the health aspects) that the pasta disc conveys. A reasoned reappropriation of traditions. Franco Pepe is one of the forerunners of this trend. The daisy is wrong because the ingredients do not have the usual order: the tomato is over the mozzarella in an ironic overturning that does not overturn the taste.
2016 Cacio e pepe in bladder, by Riccardo Camanini. Rigatoni are cooked inside the pork bladder. A poor dish of the Roman peasant tradition, with the technique d'haute cuisine French, in the manner of poularde en vessiein turn echoed by the texts of Apicius. The refinement of the cooking method is countered by the strength of the taste and the smell of the dish, with an interesting hint of pajata. Preparing the pasta in this way is a theatrical proposal, with its opening at the table, and at high risk: it is not possible to see or taste the rigatoni first as they cook under pressure inside the organ. "Each time it can be different. Like when you buy shoes from a craftsman, you find these imperfections because they are handmade. The kitchen must be like this," he says. Praise of imperfection paradoxically made by those who pursue perfection (serenely) obsessively.
2017 The sea inside by Mauro Uliassi. The three-star Michelin chef does not shy away from strong flavors and very strong images. In the dishes he finds all the flavors, smells and combinations of his past as a boy walking on the shore and fishing on a boat, translated into haute cuisine forms and techniques, which crosses temporal and geographical boundaries. Sometimes with unexpected irony. In fact with "The sea inside " means the entrails of fish and molluscs: monkfish liver, umbrine, cuttlefish and cod, offal of fish and molluscs for a journey inside the sea. But it's not just splatter provocation. There is a thought of recovery. As the fifth quarter of the meat has now made its entry into the noble kitchen, it is also time for the fifth quarter of the sea.
2018 The timbale of the Leopard, in the re-reading of Ciccio Sultano it is a dish between history and literature, between emotions, style and inventiveness. It is the timbale that every gourmet has fallen in love with by reading the historical novel of the Gattopardi, of which the book ofGiuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa. To the brise dough, layer by layer, add slices of fried aubergine, cooked Capitelli ham, fresh Ragusano cheese, homemade macaroni seasoned with the "party sauce" based on meat by Giuseppe Grassi, black pig of the Nebrobi La Paisanella by Agostino Ninone Sebastiano, chicken Aia Gaia. All mixed with "balsamella" scented with bourbon vanilla, much lighter and more pleasant than the original custard. A way to reiterate – another trend of the decade – the pride of belonging, the awareness of one's roots, in this case of an Island-Continent whose gastronomy is a mirror of history, a Mediterranean, Arabic, Norman, Spanish, Baroque mix .
2019 Tomato ravioli, by Cristiano Tomei. Pasta, for Italians, is not just a feast for the palate: it has an enormous evocative value. And it allows you to recall scenarios related to family and childhood. The dish with which Cristiano Tomei reaches the peak of emotion is his interpretation of tomato pasta: a fake fresh pasta, obtained by overcooking dry pasta in tomato water, to then knead the dough, use it as a puff pastry for the ravioli to be filled with a parmesan fondue and served in a basket for steaming. With this dish he is able to give life to a game that engages different senses so that diners have no idea of what they will taste. Only his taste will reveal that it is the childhood dish of every Italian.
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